Spoke Threadlocker - Revision history

Pvd: /* Mad Science */

2007-10-29T18:12:03Z

Mad Science

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:12, 29 October 2007
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	===Mad Science===		===Mad Science===

	500cc Tap Water		*500cc Tap Water
	50cc Sodium Cloride (Salt)		*50cc Sodium Cloride (Salt)

	3 samples are soaked in 10% saline Solution. Linseed Oil, Loctite 242, and Locktite 222MS were used to bond stainless steel blocks to an anodized aluminum plate to simulate the bonding between a stainless steel spoke and an anodized aluminum nipple. (10/18/2007)		3 samples are soaked in 9% saline Solution. Linseed Oil, Loctite 242, and Locktite 222MS were used to bond stainless steel blocks to an anodized aluminum plate to simulate the bonding between a stainless steel spoke and an anodized aluminum nipple. (10/18/2007)

	It took less than 1 day for both of the locktites to fully dry. The linseed oil was let to dry for over 8 days. It was still damp in runnoff areas, but the area right around the block appeard to be 'dry'.		It took less than 1 day for both of the locktites to fully dry. The linseed oil was let to dry for over 8 days. It was still damp in runnoff areas, but the area right around the block appeard to be 'dry'.

Pvd: /* Stupid Options */

2007-10-26T21:04:21Z

Stupid Options

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:04, 26 October 2007
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	Linseed oil is just a tacky oil. It stinks, it's messy, and extremely flamible. I used it once, I will never use it again. In time, linseed oil washes away just like regular oil allowing the nipple to corrode against the spoke. Forget it.		Linseed oil is just a tacky oil. It stinks, it's messy, and extremely flamible. I used it once, I will never use it again. In time, linseed oil washes away just like regular oil allowing the nipple to corrode against the spoke. Forget it.

			===Mad Science===

			500cc Tap Water
			50cc Sodium Cloride (Salt)

			3 samples are soaked in 10% saline Solution. Linseed Oil, Loctite 242, and Locktite 222MS were used to bond stainless steel blocks to an anodized aluminum plate to simulate the bonding between a stainless steel spoke and an anodized aluminum nipple. (10/18/2007)

			It took less than 1 day for both of the locktites to fully dry. The linseed oil was let to dry for over 8 days. It was still damp in runnoff areas, but the area right around the block appeard to be 'dry'.

			The sample was then submerged into the 10% saline solution to see which agent would fail first. (10/26/2007)

	===Other Considerations===		===Other Considerations===

Pvd: /* Stupid Options */

2007-05-06T17:27:33Z

Stupid Options

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:27, 6 May 2007
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	Sometimes, you will hear people suggest using [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linseed_oil boiled linseed oil] on spoke threads to keep the nipple in place. It should meet ASTM D260-86(2001) Standard Specification for Boiled Linseed Oil.		Sometimes, you will hear people suggest using [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linseed_oil boiled linseed oil] on spoke threads to keep the nipple in place. It should meet ASTM D260-86(2001) Standard Specification for Boiled Linseed Oil.

	Linseed oil is just a tacky oil. It stinks ~~and~~ it's messy. I used it once, I will never use it again. In time, linseed oil washes away just like regular oil. Forget it.		Linseed oil is just a tacky oil. It stinks, it's messy, and extremely flamible. I used it once, I will never use it again. In time, linseed oil washes away just like regular oil allowing the nipple to corrode against the spoke. Forget it.

	===Other Considerations===		===Other Considerations===

Pvd: /* Pre-build Options */

2007-01-22T17:32:16Z

Pre-build Options

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:32, 22 January 2007
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	===Pre-build Options===		===Pre-build Options===
	One of the best options available for threadlocking spokes is [http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/242-EN.pdf Loctite 242] or it's slightly stronger (especially with brass) relative [http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/243-EN.PDF Loctite 243]. Both are commonly refered to as 'Blue Loctite'. I have personally used this for about 10 years. It is great stuff.		One of the best options available for threadlocking spokes is [http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/242-EN.pdf Loctite 242] or it's slightly stronger (especially with brass) relative [http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/243-EN.PDF Loctite 243]. Both are commonly refered to as 'Blue Loctite'. I have personally used this for about 10 years. It is great stuff.

			[http://www.permatex.com/documents/tds/automotive/09178.pdf Permatex® Medium Strength Threadlocker BLUE] is fine to use as well.<br>
			[[Image:Permatex-Medium-Strength.jpg]]<br>

	If you have concerns about the threadlocking strength of 242 or 243, [http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/222MS-EN.pdf Loctite 222MS] otherwise known as 'Purple Loctite' can be used instead. It is far less powerful but also less comonly available.		If you have concerns about the threadlocking strength of 242 or 243, [http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/222MS-EN.pdf Loctite 222MS] otherwise known as 'Purple Loctite' can be used instead. It is far less powerful but also less comonly available.

Pvd: /* Stupid Options */

2007-01-18T03:38:35Z

Stupid Options

← Older revision		Revision as of 03:38, 18 January 2007
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	Under no circumstances should [http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/271-EN.pdf Loctite 271] or any of the higher strength threadlockers ever be used on spokes. These are commonly refered to as 'Red Loctite'.		Under no circumstances should [http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/271-EN.pdf Loctite 271] or any of the higher strength threadlockers ever be used on spokes. These are commonly refered to as 'Red Loctite'.
	===Stupid Options===		===Stupid Options===
	Sometimes, you will hear people suggest using [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linseed_oil boiled linseed oil] on spoke threads to keep the nipple in place. Linseed oil is just a tacky oil. It stinks and it's messy. I used it once, I will never use it again. In time, linseed oil washes away just like regular oil. Forget it.		Sometimes, you will hear people suggest using [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linseed_oil boiled linseed oil] on spoke threads to keep the nipple in place. It should meet ASTM D260-86(2001) Standard Specification for Boiled Linseed Oil.

			Linseed oil is just a tacky oil. It stinks and it's messy. I used it once, I will never use it again. In time, linseed oil washes away just like regular oil. Forget it.

	===Other Considerations===		===Other Considerations===

Pvd: /* Stupid Options */

2007-01-18T03:18:47Z

Stupid Options

← Older revision		Revision as of 03:18, 18 January 2007
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	Under no circumstances should [http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/271-EN.pdf Loctite 271] or any of the higher strength threadlockers ever be used on spokes. These are commonly refered to as 'Red Loctite'.		Under no circumstances should [http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/271-EN.pdf Loctite 271] or any of the higher strength threadlockers ever be used on spokes. These are commonly refered to as 'Red Loctite'.
	===Stupid Options===		===Stupid Options===
	Sometimes, you will hear people suggest using [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linseed_oil linseed oil] on spoke threads to keep the nipple in place. Linseed oil is just a tacky oil. It stinks and it's messy. I used it once, I will never use it again. In time, linseed oil washes away just like regular oil. Forget it.		Sometimes, you will hear people suggest using [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linseed_oil boiled linseed oil] on spoke threads to keep the nipple in place. Linseed oil is just a tacky oil. It stinks and it's messy. I used it once, I will never use it again. In time, linseed oil washes away just like regular oil. Forget it.

	===Other Considerations===		===Other Considerations===

Pvd: /* Other Considerations */

2007-01-16T00:49:34Z

Other Considerations

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:49, 16 January 2007
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	* A bit of [http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/ZINCAS-EN.pdf Zinc Anti-Seize] on the shoulder of the nipple, eyelet, or rim will make the build go much smoother and truing easier even years later, especially if using aluminum nipples in rims without eyelets.		* A bit of [http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/ZINCAS-EN.pdf Zinc Anti-Seize] on the shoulder of the nipple, eyelet, or rim will make the build go much smoother and truing easier even years later, especially if using aluminum nipples in rims without eyelets.
	: A slurry of Anti-Seize and oil in a syringe helps in getting the fluid between the rim and nipple post lacing.<br>		: A slurry of Anti-Seize and oil in a syringe helps in getting the fluid between the rim and nipple post lacing.<br>
	: [Image:Anti-seize-slurry.jpg]]<br>		: [[Image:Anti-seize-slurry.jpg]]<br>
	* If building using a Mavic UST rim, the threaded eyelets should be fastened using [http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/243-EN.PDF Loctite 243] or equivilant as per [http://www.mavic.com/e_upload/pdf/UST_Rims_et_dismountable.pdf UST PDS]		* If building using a Mavic UST rim, the threaded eyelets should be fastened using [http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/243-EN.PDF Loctite 243] or equivilant as per [http://www.mavic.com/e_upload/pdf/UST_Rims_et_dismountable.pdf UST PDS]

Pvd: /* Other Considerations */

2007-01-16T00:49:18Z

Other Considerations

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:49, 16 January 2007
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	===Other Considerations===		===Other Considerations===
	* A bit of [http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/ZINCAS-EN.pdf Zinc Anti-Seize] on the shoulder of the nipple, eyelet, or rim will make the build go much smoother and truing easier even years later, especially if using aluminum nipples in rims without eyelets.		* A bit of [http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/ZINCAS-EN.pdf Zinc Anti-Seize] on the shoulder of the nipple, eyelet, or rim will make the build go much smoother and truing easier even years later, especially if using aluminum nipples in rims without eyelets.
			: A slurry of Anti-Seize and oil in a syringe helps in getting the fluid between the rim and nipple post lacing.<br>
			: [Image:Anti-seize-slurry.jpg]]<br>
	* If building using a Mavic UST rim, the threaded eyelets should be fastened using [http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/243-EN.PDF Loctite 243] or equivilant as per [http://www.mavic.com/e_upload/pdf/UST_Rims_et_dismountable.pdf UST PDS]		* If building using a Mavic UST rim, the threaded eyelets should be fastened using [http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/243-EN.PDF Loctite 243] or equivilant as per [http://www.mavic.com/e_upload/pdf/UST_Rims_et_dismountable.pdf UST PDS]

Poopooskins at 05:38, 13 January 2007

2007-01-13T05:38:35Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 05:38, 13 January 2007
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	:This was experienced by me first hand back in 1996 when I blew a sidewall 12 miles into the [http://www.fs.fed.us/r2/sanjuan/maps/sjnf-map.htm San Juan Mountains] outside Durango, CO. After putting a 3 inch slash accross the sidewall of my tire, I was forced to ride the rear rim over that 12 miles of singletrack to get to the closest road. This was back when I was still using oil on spoke threads. As I rode, I experienced the wheel slowly loosen up, wobble out, and eventually shatter. I got to the road just as the wheel had broken into two peices but was still rolling.		:This was experienced by me first hand back in 1996 when I blew a sidewall 12 miles into the [http://www.fs.fed.us/r2/sanjuan/maps/sjnf-map.htm San Juan Mountains] outside Durango, CO. After putting a 3 inch slash accross the sidewall of my tire, I was forced to ride the rear rim over that 12 miles of singletrack to get to the closest road. This was back when I was still using oil on spoke threads. As I rode, I experienced the wheel slowly loosen up, wobble out, and eventually shatter. I got to the road just as the wheel had broken into two peices but was still rolling.

	:Recently, while racing the [[Downieville_Classic_2006\|2006 Downiville Downhill]], after double flatting with only one tube, I was forced to ride my front rim through the lower 1/3 of the course. The wheel was ridden as hard as possible since it was race conditions. The ~~differnce~~ with this wheel was that the nipples were mounted using Loctite 242. Amazingly, the wheel held up fine and was evenly perfectly true when checked after the finish line.		:Recently, while racing the [[Downieville_Classic_2006\|2006 Downiville Downhill]], after double flatting with only one tube, I was forced to ride my front rim through the lower 1/3 of the course. The wheel was ridden as hard as possible since it was race conditions. The difference with this wheel was that the nipples were mounted using Loctite 242. Amazingly, the wheel held up fine and was evenly perfectly true when checked after the finish line.
	<br>		<br>
	:[[Image:Downieville2006-1.jpg]]		:[[Image:Downieville2006-1.jpg]]
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	===Threadlocker Etiquette===		===Threadlocker Etiquette===

	* Loctite threadlockers should never come in contact with plastics of any kind. The threadlocker will feed on the plastic and destroy it. Very special threadlockers exist for dealing with plastic ~~peices~~.		* Loctite threadlockers should never come in contact with plastics of any kind. The threadlocker will feed on the plastic and destroy it. Very special threadlockers exist for dealing with plastic pieces.
	* Other than very special products, a threadlocker is designed to bond to clean, oil free surfaces. Oil will reduce or eliminate the strength of the bond.		* Other than very special products, a threadlocker is designed to bond to clean, oil free surfaces. Oil will reduce or eliminate the strength of the bond.
	* Activators may be used in certian ~~cercumstances~~, but they reduce the strength of the threadlocker.		* Activators may be used in certian circumcisions, but they reduce the strength of the threadlocker.

	===Pre-build Options===		===Pre-build Options===

Pvd: /* Post Build Option */

2007-01-12T23:20:18Z

Post Build Option

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:20, 12 January 2007
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	===Post Build Option===		===Post Build Option===

	If a wheel must be built without 242 or 222MS on hand, [http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/290-EN.pdf Loctite 290] otherwise known as 'Green Loctite' may be used after after assembly is complete (ASAP). This is not prefered, but acceptable in the special cases that real life present.		If a wheel must be built without 242, 243 or 222MS on hand, [http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/290-EN.pdf Loctite 290] otherwise known as 'Green Loctite' may be used after after assembly is complete (ASAP). This is not prefered, but acceptable in the special cases that real life present.

	===Non-Threadlocking Option===		===Non-Threadlocking Option===